Murmansk. June 15, 2013.

Murmansk is the home of the Russian Navy's Northern fleet as well as nine nuclear powered ice breakers.  In the morning we went for a city highlights bus tours stopping to see Alyosha the defender of the Soviet Arctic during the second world war and other sights.  In the afternoon we visited the Murmansk Shipping Company museum and the world's first nuclear powered ice breaker, the Lenin.  Because of the harsh climate and reduction in government subsidies the overall population has been in decline for the last decade.  And there is not a lot going in Murmansk.

Memorial to the "Defender of the Soviet Arctic during the
Second World War".   Or more affectionally called Alyosha.

Nuclear powered ice breaker.  The Lenin.

The bridge of the Lenin.

The reactor room of the Lenin.  People are not real.

Franz Josef Land. June 12, 2013

After a day at sea we arrived at Franz Josef Land. Look it up. We were far north on the map, very far north actually. Never even thought about getting here. But then again... this was m/v The World with Captain Dag Saevik at the helm and he just loves a good challenge!!!!
Successful landings depend on a combination of ice, sea and weather conditions.

In the morning we made a zodiac landing at Flora Point, Cape Flora on Northbrook Island for our first steps on Franz Josef Land.  It was cold with an unforgiving wind.

An ice-free Northbrook Island.

Enjoying a short and cold stroll at Cape Flora.
We are not the first to visit here.

We sailed around for most of the day unsuccessfully looking for places to park the boat until we finally found Baxter Island with very promising looking 'fast' ice (as in fastened to the land). The expedition scouting party went 'ashore' to check out the ice conditions and it was decided that the landing could go ahead. The weather, light, wind, all was aligned perfectly. Captain Dag drove the ship right up to the ice edge and around 10pm we went for an evening stroll.
Absolutely surreal experience. We haven't experienced anything that even remotely comes close to this.
And to top the day off, we went for a midnight dip in the freezing waters.  Crazy? Yep! Thing to do? Of course!

The World parked right at the fast ice's edge.

Beautiful landscape over the frozen sea.

Hard to believe it is 10pm in the evening.

Classic photo of the residents trying to pull
the ship through the ice.

Stephen with Maria, one of our Russian guides.

The Polar plunge.  Yes, it was very cold.

And very glad to be out of the water.

Ice Cruising, Barents Sea. June 11, 2013.

Spent the day cruising from Novaya Zemlya to Franz Josef Land in search of wildlife.  We found Beluga Whale.

Beluga Whale.  Mum and baby.

Novaya Zemlya. June 10, 2013

Morning Activities

Today we truly ventured north.  We woke very early to discover the ship had discovered ice.  Ice conditions prevented a landing at the abandoned Soviet research base.  Instead the captain took the ship on a lap of the bay in search of wildlife.  And yes, we finally spotted our first Polar Bear.  We did make a landing on an ice-free beach to enjoy a brisk (short and cold) hike to view the local glacier.

Enjoying the icy cold weather as we head North.

People on the forward deck looking for Polar Bear. 

People on the Bridge looking for Polar Bear.

We spotted Walrus.

And finally - Polar Bear.

Two adults feeding.

Russkaya Gavan an abandoned Soviet research station.

We went for a hike.

Lunchtime Activities

The ship continued sailing north along the coast packed filled of magnificent glaciers.  We stopped briefly into Muck Bay to get up close to one of the glaciers.

Back in the Ice.  This time in search of glaciers.

Glaciers found in Muck Bay. 

Evening Activities

And to round out the day, we visited Oranskie Island, which is merely a rock to the North of Novaya Zemlya (at about 77° North).  In fact it does not even appear on Google Earth, hmmmm.  The landing started at 10pm and we were safely back aboard before midnight.

Welcome to Oranskie Island.

Caroline enjoying the balmy weather.

And all to see the birds.

Time to head back to the ship.

After a quick brandy (on ice).

Cape Kanin. June 8, 2013.

Cape Kanin is the last outpost of the White Sea and mainland Russia before we head north into the Barents Sea.  We did a little Tundra hiking before our 2 day sea voyage to the next destination.

Evidence of bear.  Not Polar bear but Brown bear.

Stephen on the Watch Tower.

T-Shirt weather.

Chapoma and Pyalitsa Rivers. June 7, 2013.

Chapoma River

If you believe the guides, apparently we were the first westerners to visit this Chapoma River village.  We saw first hand how hard life is in these remote lands.  There is no wharf for large boats to land so we arrived in zodiacs.  The primary method of access to this village is via helicopter.

Chapoma River mouth.  Beautiful day with a
blitzering 4°C temperature.

Pomor House.

Caroline making friends with the locals.  The locals
were almost as interested in us as we were in them.

Life in this remote village.

Notice the firewood stacked for winter.

Caroline was on a photographic walking tour
and found this photogenic boat.

Stephen hiked up Chapoma River along
with the other long hikers.

Pyalitsa River

We sailed 60 miles North East to Pyalitsa River mouth and another very similar Pomor village.  This village was even more remote than Chapoma River and boasts around 50 people who winter over.

Pomor House

Evening Sailing North

We started heading north above the Arctic Circle again.  The following photo was taken just past midnight.

The Final Sunset.  As we head north we will no
longer see the sun set.

Zayatsky and Anzer Islands. June 6, 2013.

Zayatsky Island

This was our first 'real' expedition outing as we got into the zodiacs for the first time this trip to join the Expedition team and local guides for a walk to view a chapel and old labyrinths, the purpose of which is unclear, on Zayatski Island.

Inside Church.

Stone buildings.

Labyrinth.

Anzer Island

In the afternoon the ship sailed the short distance to Anzer Island where we took zodiacs to Kopalskaya Bay. From there we hiked to Golgotha Crucifixion Skete, then via The Holy Trinity Skete onto the Western point of the island, where we waited for the ship to relocate and send out zodiacs to pick us up again. 

Golgotha Cruxifition Skete.

Holy Trinity Skete.

Western point of the Anzersky Island.

Solovetsky Island and Monastery. June 5, 2013.

We visited Solovetsky Island and Monastery on a cold summer's day.  This spiritual home to the Russian Orthodox Church was the greatest citadel of the church in the far north until it was turned into a Soviet prison and labour camp from 1923 to 1939, a prototype for the infamous "GULag" system of imprisonment.  The monastery is surrounded by an impressive fortress style wall with 8 watch towers that date back to the 1430s.  Now a UNESCO World Heritage site under some massive restoration by the Russian government.

Solovetsky Monastery

Entrance Gate.

Refectory

Looking out to the entrance gate.

Saviour Transfiguration Cathedral (1558-1566)
Filled with reproduced icons.

Pryadil'naya or Spinning Tower